Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Five Still Going Strong That Quentin Described; Life&Style

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

Five Still Going Strong That Quentin Described; Life&Style

Article excerpt

Byline: FAY MASCHLER

CAPITAL HOTEL, 22-24 Basil Street, SW3 (020 7589 5171) [pound]72. "The arrival of a lunatic individualist on the catering scene should be heralded by trumpets. Mr David Levin is by British standards undoubtedly mad ...

flouting most of the conventions of London hotel-keeping." Levin has kept up the style, these days employing for his small restaurant the decidedly gifted chef Eric Chavot.

GAY HUSSAR, 2 Greek Street, W1 (020 7437 0973) [pound]36. "This is one of those restaurants which, if a prospective restaurateur described it exactly and asked whether or not he should open it, one could only advise him not to."

Alas, Victor Sassie, who opened it in 1954, is no longer with us, but the Hungarian cooking remains lavish and comforting.

WILTON'S, 55 Jermyn Street, SW1 (020 7629 9955) [pound]70. "If you go to Wilton's you know you are going to have to pay through the nose, so it cannot make much odds whether the partridge costs [pound]3 or [pound]4. …

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