Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

The Food's Fine on the Rhine; Germany Is the New Place to Head for a Gastronomic Weekend

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

The Food's Fine on the Rhine; Germany Is the New Place to Head for a Gastronomic Weekend

Article excerpt

Byline: JEREMY WAYNE

FRANKFURT, my dear, I don't give a damn," I say to the missus as we exit the baggage reclaim area. I've never had much time for Frankfurt, an industrial metropolis, straddling the Main river.

But we're not stopping. Instead, we're heading to the district of Eltville, 50 kilometres to the west, and the wine country of the Rheingau.

The British wine press is full of the comeback of German wines, and we're off to see what all the fuss is about.

We're staying at Schloss Reinhartshausen, a castle dating from 1801, now a rather swish hotel. It stands pretty much surrounded by its own vineyards, overlooking the Rhine. They've been making wine here at Reinhartshausen for nearly 700 years and the Schloss, the second biggest producer of the Rheingau, is at the forefront of the great German wine revival.

Tramping around outside, I note that these vines could only grow in Germany - a week after the harvest, they're looking immaculate and perfectly in shape, standing in rows of nature-defying neatness. You get the feeling that any leaf fluttering out of line here will be court-martialled.

We move into the Schloss's Vinothek.

The choice of years and styles of Riesling is legion although, uniquely in this part of Germany, the Rheingau also produce Chardonnays and white Burgundies.

Among the best wines we try are the fresh 2000 and 2001 Rieslings, high acidity combated with added sugar - appley and pineappley, for everyday drinking. The more complex sptlese (late harvest) Rieslings, from Wisselbrunnen and Schlossberg, will drink well for years.

A Doctor Zerbe drops in for a snifter. He is introduced to us as a famous and respected German wine expert. Discovering we're English, he asks us to try a 2001 late-harvest Riesling.

"This wine offers remarkable value for money," he says. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.