Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

That's the Way to Do It

Newspaper article The Evening Standard (London, England)

That's the Way to Do It

Article excerpt

Byline: FAY MASCHLER

TODAY we launch our search for the winner of The Evening Standard/ London Tonight Award, to be announced at the Tio Pepe Carlton London Restaurant Awards taking place in March. Our winner will be chosen by Evening Standard readers and viewers of London Tonight, and the purpose is to celebrate praiseworthy eating out which doesn't cost a fortune.

Fortune is, of course, a relative term, but, being realistic, the team of judges of the Restaurant Awards has chosen 60 notable restaurants spread across London, representing 15 different cuisines, where two people could have a three-course meal with wine for pound sterling60 or less.

Details of where to go, how to exercise your restaurant-judging skills, and the prize draw, which results in a fortunate reader winning a week's holiday for two in Jerez de la Frontera in Southern Spain, including a VIP visit to the Tio Pepe Bodega, are on Page 30.

Dirceu Pozzebon, chef and co-proprietor of SAMPHIRE in Tufnell Park, was previously chef at Mesclun in Stoke Newington, which, conveniently for today's purposes, was winner of The Evening Standard Londoner's Award in the Carlton Restaurant Awards 2001.

Samphire opened too recently to be included in today's list of "60 Under 60" but it most definitely fulfils the criteria of the sort of place we are looking to champion.

Brazilian Pozzebon is a gentle chap with a deft touch and a commitment to high-quality ingredients - the fish used is line-caught and he gets his meat from Frank Godfrey in Highbury. He has put together a thoroughly modern menu where the element of surprise tends not to be in the composition of the dishes but the excellence of execution.

FOR example a bowl of mussels, clams, cockles, prawns and baby squid steamed with garlic, thyme, chilli, olive oil and parsley - a first course at pound sterling6 - featured not just tenderly cooked seafood but a rich and complex herb-strewn scarlet broth. Carpaccio of tuna with guacamole and a herb salad, same price, was a delicate combining of austere with oily. …

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