Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Stop at the Golden Greek's for Classic Roadhouse Fare

Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Stop at the Golden Greek's for Classic Roadhouse Fare

Article excerpt

In the best of all possible worlds, a friend and I would be driving on a blacktop highway, a two-lane blacktop highway through open countryside.

We'd see a sign for a town, a few miles ahead. We'd round a gentle curve, and we'd see a frame building, all by itself, with a large sign, "Golden Greek's."

We'd stop, walk through a room with several pool tables, enter another room, with bar and some tables, a steam table and some surprisingly good cooking from a classic roadhouse.

Unfortunately, this is not the best of all possible worlds, but we do have The Golden Greek's, at 500 South Florissant Road (524-3277) in Ferguson, and it's a building that, except for its location, fits the descriptions in the paragraph above.

If the outside of The Golden Greek's is rather bare, the inside is anything but, with enough road signs and car emblems to make it look more like the road itself than like a roadhouse (see Odds and Ends). It's obvious that the building will never fall down because there is so much to hold its walls in place.

The Golden Greek's is one of the best lunch bargains I know. The limited menu offers some of the usual appetizers and sandwiches, but what arrives is not the usual bar food.

Fresh shrimp, boiled with some nice spicing, avoid the mushiness that they can acquire with too much cooking or waiting. Instead, they peel easily, and are tasty and slightly chewy, accompanied by a dipping sauce that is heavy on the horseradish.

The ribeye steak sandwich was tender, just off the grill, and absolutely delicious.

A cod sandwich, ordered as an alternative to a hamburger one day, was outstanding, with the fish delightfully battered, then fried quickly and served piping hot. The best fish sandwich I've had in a long time.

And then there's the all-you-can-eat buffet, at $5 a person. On a recent visit, the steam table carried baked chicken, meat loaf, barbecued pork steaks, smoked bratwurst, spare ribs, lasagna, sloppy joe mix, mashed potatoes and green beans, plus some salad fixings. …

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