Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Addison's Is the Place for a Little Lunch with Wine

Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Addison's Is the Place for a Little Lunch with Wine

Article excerpt

The setting just begs for a maroon velvet smoking jacket and a glass of Port, or Madeira, or perhaps sherry. Two large wing chairs, facing each other at a conversational angle, are in front of a fireplace, complete with mantel. I don't know if the fireplace works - who cares during June in St. Louis - but I can worry about it in the fall.

That's the centerpiece of Addison's on the Square, a wine bar and cafe that opened recently at 1917 Park Avenue (621-8877), in the heart of Lafayette Square. With Ricardo's having moved into the old Patty Long's, the block is coming back to life, and it's nice to see.

Addison's serves a limited menu of some highly satisfactory soups and sandwiches, plus some cheese and pate plates. The pates come from Les Trois Petits Cochons (The Three Little Pigs), a New York patisserie that makes them most elegantly.

They vary, depending on the mood of proprietor Michael Marvaso, but on a recent visit I sampled two excellent versions - a salmon mousse that was light and soft and redolent of the succulent fish, and a delicious, Mediterranean-style chicken liver pate that was studded with some dried tomatoes for color, flavor and texture. A hint of brandy added a special dimension to the liver, and a variety of crackers arrives for spreading.

Cheeses also vary, though brie usually is one of them. On a recent visit, Fontina, Havarti and Morbier, the latter a French goat's milk cheese, shared the plate with the brie, and Stilton is an occasional visitor. A platter can easily serve two as an appetizer or a late-evening snack.

A soup of the day, a couple of salads and a few sandwiches round out the menu - gazpacho was tangy and just right on a warm day, and corn chowder, with a few bits of celery, potato and crisp bacon, was ideal on a cooler one, though it needed a little pepper.

Tuna fish salad, on a croissant, was a comfortable lunch sandwich, and some tarragon added a perky touch to the tuna. …

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