Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Book Explains Food Line, and Much More

Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Book Explains Food Line, and Much More

Article excerpt

The Edible Man" is a book about Dave Nichol and the development of the President's Choice line at Loblaw Cos. But Canadian journalist Anne Kingston delivers much more than the details of that story.

In providing context for her subject, she takes sometimes lengthy detours that amount to social commentary. But to foodies and people interested in things like the evolution of the supermarket, these are fascinating reading.

Kingston says, for example, that "Men do not eat the food of their enemies or that of nations held in disrepute. The popularity of sushi in North America would have been unthinkable forty years ago."

Mexican food, she argues, didn't win mass-market acceptance in the United States and Canada until Mexico gained respect as a legitimate economic force.

In a discussion about package design, Kingston says North American supermarket shoppers "were squeamish about direct references to the origins of meat in packaged goods, preferring not to associate dinner with living creatures. …

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