Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Good Cooks Attend to Fruits of Winter

Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Good Cooks Attend to Fruits of Winter

Article excerpt

REMEMBERING the fruit of spring and summer, I recall an image from lower Manhattan: fruit, looking like sections of an orchestra, stacked in open-air stands lining First Avenue. Berries, followed by cherries, followed by apricots, peaches and nectarines.

Then Labor Day and school. An apple a day. . . Then winter and the citrus harvest.

Fall and winter fruits are stern stuff. But good cooks do not give themselves over to winter despondency. To tame the grapefruit, we reduce it to juice. To corrupt the apple, we bathe it in butter. To sweeten the lemon, we cook it with some salt.

SAUTEED CATFISH WITH GRAPEFRUIT

2 grapefruit

1 cup fresh grapefruit juice

1 teaspoon salt, divided

1 tablespoon green peppercorns in brine, drained

6 tablespoons ( 3/4 stick) unsalted butter

4 (6- to 8-ounce) catfish fillets

All-purpose flour

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

Grate peel of grapefruit without grating any white pith; place in saucepan. Remove and discard white pith from grapefruit. Section grapefruit and reserve sections on plate, adding any juice to saucepan.

Add 1 cup grapefruit juice and 1/2 teaspoon salt to pan. Cook at medium heat, reducing liquid by about two-thirds or until thick. Remove from heat. Add green peppercorns. Whisk in butter. Set aside; keep warm.

Meanwhile, pat catfish fillets with paper towels. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and dust with flour, shaking off excess.

Divide oil between 2 (12-inch) saute pans or skillets; heat over medium heat. Add catfish; cook 3 to 5 minutes a side, depending on thickness, until golden. Transfer fish to platter. Spoon grapefruit butter on top and garnish with grapefruit sections. Serve at once. Yield: 4 servings.

SCALLOPS WITH SAUTERNE ,APPLES AND TARRAGON

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 1/2 to 2 pounds small (dime size) bay scallops or large (size of a half-dollar) sea scallops, halved crosswise

1 teaspoon minced shallots

1/2 cup sauterne wine

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon dried

6 tablespoons ( 3/4 stick) unsalted butter

1 green Pippin or other slightly tart apple, unpeeled, julienne cut

Salt

Ground white or black pepper

Heat oil in large skillet over high heat. …

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