Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Steaks Rule at Citizen Kane's

Newspaper article St Louis Post-Dispatch (MO)

Steaks Rule at Citizen Kane's

Article excerpt

Years ago, Frank Kane's football coach at St. Louis University High School nicknamed him "Citizen Kane."

"It didn't impress me much at the time," Kane said. "But later I said I would someday open a restaurant and call it Citizen Kane's."

While movie buffs still enjoy Orson Welles' acclaimed movie, Frank Kane concentrates on serving a good steak. He opened his steakhouse in Kirkwood in December 1993.

"One of the questions people ask when they come into town is, `Where can I get a good steak?' " Kane said.

The 16- to 18-ounce New York strip is the most popular steak on his menu, he said; the 10-ounce filet is his diners' second favorite.

Kane opened his own restaurant after a series of jobs that taught him about food service and how to deal with the public.

At 14, he went to work as a deckhand on the Admiral, "when it still floated," he said. He managed the coat room, made the popcorn, tied up the boat and became brig master. As such, he guarded the brig full of rowdies while the Admiral floated on interstate waters. Back at dock, he released his prisoners.

After 10 years on the Admiral, he joined Ruth's Chris Steak House for four years, then Sam's St. Louis Steakhouse. After a year with Sam's, he was ready for a place of his own.

Locating Citizen Kane's on Clinton Place brought Kane back to his hometown, Kirkwood, and to a house that had been variously a boardinghouse for a band, a tearoom and an Irish pub.

Kane's has kept the look of a pub. The first floor is divided into a long narrow barroom, plus two dining rooms. Green-plaid cafe curtains are at the windows. Upstairs are more small dining rooms. Kane plans to put tables outdoors behind the restaurant in the summer.

"I'll put the cigar smokers out there," he said.

Along with steaks, the menu features shrimp, salmon, tilapia and walleyed pike in season, either sauteed or charcoal-broiled, as well as chicken and pasta dishes. Side dishes of boardinghouse potatoes and creamed spinach and either soup or salad accompany the entrees. …

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