Newspaper article Evansville Courier & Press (2007-Current)

Every Region in U.S. Has Own Type of Pie ; WHAT WE'RE READING

Newspaper article Evansville Courier & Press (2007-Current)

Every Region in U.S. Has Own Type of Pie ; WHAT WE'RE READING

Article excerpt

"The United States of Pie" isn't your typical modern cookbook. It is clearly conceived around the notion that the favored pies of a region are strongly tied to the resources available, from blueberries in Maine and concord grape pie in Massachusetts to pecan, peanut or black walnut pies in the South, to persimmons, rhubarb and sour cherry in the Midwest to avocado (yes, a sweet rich pie), olallieberry, Meyer lemon, date and raisin pies in the West.

It's the work of author Adrienne Kane that takes this themed case of pies up a level in the baking rack.

The book offers a wonderful combination of history and modern- day practice of pie-baking, and it is served up in a deep crust of research and glazed with interviews.

In her introduction, Kane talks about her husband's recommendation that she examine the historical cookbook collection at the Yale library.

"These were books written by farmwives for farmwives, housekeeping guides, cooking manuals for newlywed brides, books produced by church groups and ladies' auxiliaries. They were much more than collections of recipes; each one was a little window into a world now gone, a historical record," Kane writes.

To lead off each of the regional sections of the book, Kane also found people in those regions who have made a career, or at least a reputation, on their pie-baking. These include Jen Biddle who created the Texas Pie Kitchen, which not only creates pies for area restaurants but also is a job-training program, Andy Chase who serves slices of sour cherry pie created from a recipe by Dorothy Kraker of the Cherry Hut near Traverse City, Mich., and Kathy Duarte who serves up an olallieberry in Pescadero, Calif., just off Calif. 1.

Kane has done far more than just research the recipes and tastes. She sinks her hands into the dough, She prefers to blend the flour and fat together with her fingers rather than use a pastry blender or a food processor.

She has baked these pie recipes, and many others, in the creation of this book. She has adapted the historical recipes for modern-day use and includes recipes from some of the best bakers currently creating pies.

The book not only provides excellent recipes in each category but her explanation of ingredients and tips for the best-piebaking are sound.

The explanation of leaf lard sent me on a search for a local source. The typical lard, often labeled manteca, is hydrogenated and contains trans fats, Kane explains.

"But leaf lard, often sold by butchers or at farmer's markets, contains a lower level of saturated fat than butter, and in fact contains an acceptable level of monounsaturated fat (the good fat)," Kane writes.

Kane also is the author of "Cooking and Screaming" and writes a blog


Source: "United States of Pie," by Adrienne Kane


1 graham cracker crust

For the filling

2 cups whole milk cup sugar

/ cup sugar cup all-purpose flour

/ teaspoon kosher salt

3 large egg yolks, beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the meringue

3 large egg whites, at room temperature

teaspoon cream of tartar - pinch of kosher salt

6 tablespoons of sugar

teaspoon vanilla extract


To make the filling

1 In a medium-size saucepan, bring the milk just to a simmer over low heat. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed


An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.