Newspaper article Evansville Courier & Press (2007-Current)

Mild but Wild Delice Is Decadence Waiting to Be Savored ; CHEESE OF THE WEEK

Newspaper article Evansville Courier & Press (2007-Current)

Mild but Wild Delice Is Decadence Waiting to Be Savored ; CHEESE OF THE WEEK

Article excerpt

LINCET DELICE DU BOURGOGNE

Aroma *

Taste ***

Price ***

Lincet Delice du Bourgogne is a seriously decadent cheese new to the Evansville area, just right for impressing guests during a holiday gathering. It is unique - a mild yet zingy, fluffy, ultra- creamy, silky bomb of cheesy tang that zaps your taste buds before melting smoothly away in anticipation of the next bite.

Yet, for all this upfront punch, there is nothing anyone could find remotely offensive about the cheese, which I'd have to call mild overall.

Lincet is one of the French companies producing pasteurized cheese for export that Steve Jenkins, in his "Cheese Primer," actually approves of in most cases.

He's less a fan of Delice cheese in particular, claiming it doesn't have much flavor. Compared to the pungency of goat or unpasteurized, washed rind cows' milk cheeses in the same soft- ripened category, this is true.

However, for many Americans, not eating essence of goaty barnyard or a sticky, smelly bacterial rind is a definite benefit. Even for someone like me who loves mighty goat cheeses and little stinkers, Delice du Bourgogne is a treat.

According to Lincet, it is a reworking of the famous cheese Brillat-Savarin, one of France's hallowed triple-creams. Like Brillat-Savarin and all double-and triple-creams, Delice has extra cream added to the milk before curdling to bring the fat percentage to 75 percent in dry matter. In this case, it is crme fraiche that is added, a lightly cultured product similar to a thin, tangy sour cream. This gives the cheese its citrusy sizzle.

The rind is soft, white and dry, similar to that of a Brie, with the same clean mushroom notes.

It is aged for two months or less, until the cheese just inside the rind takes on a shiny, honeylike texture while the center resembles a well-prepared cheesecake. If you've tried Explorateur, you have an idea of the texture. …

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