Newspaper article International Herald Tribune

Fash File

Newspaper article International Herald Tribune

Fash File

Article excerpt

Tod's, Bally and Bulgari at Milan Fashion Week

Tod's offers winter weather as a luxury proposition

The mini movie screens displaying the world of Tod's took viewers from Milan to Rome, St. Moritz and Tuscany, all evoking glamorous places where winter has a sporty elegance. No wonder that although the famous Tod's loafers are still an important shoe, the brand has elevated many others to mountainous heights on high platform soles - - not least the "Aspen" shoe.

The designer Derek Lam created a capsule wardrobe for the same occasion: a shearling coat bonded with knit for ultra softness, or even shearling touched with gilt.

The bags, absorbing the copper and metallic colors of the clothes, were offered with new treatments of skin, like turning the firm alligator to a pliable softness. New, too, for the classic Tod's bag was a graphic vertical clasp. Suzy Menkes

Swiss motif adds snowy freshness to Bally

The Swiss chalet-style room, complete with cozy fireplace, was just one of many ways that the designers Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz reinforced the heritage of Bally.

But there was another angle to the clothes: the story of a Russian diplomat's daughter in the Soviet days, when a chosen few had access to luxury goods. Architectural and military shapes for leather outerwear were balanced by rabbit fur and cashmere, while lace-up-the-leg boots added sexy chic. More sculpting came into play with the dresses, the skirt falling asymmetrically to one side.

The attention to detail was evident -- from the elegance of a "Zurich" shoe with a molded heel to the more exotic lizard, snake and ostrich skins.

But with Switzerland as the anchoring element, there was a real freshness to the collection. S.M.

A hiss of drama from Bulgari's new accessories

Snakes entwined on a dramatic backdrop and serpent heads in enamel as bag clasps --there was a hiss of drama to Bulgari's accessories collection. …

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