Newspaper article International Herald Tribune

Sex in the Saddle

Newspaper article International Herald Tribune

Sex in the Saddle

Article excerpt

At Givenchy, Hermes and John Galliano, the horsey look came out to play.

What is it about women and horses? A trend toward a coltish look - - short, taut jackets, curving jodhpur pants and riding boots -- is galloping through the autumn 2012 Paris season.

The heels of the boots even seemed like hoofs at Givenchy; the John Galliano show went for the sex-in-the-saddle look, while the gaucho theme at Hermes had a more genteel image of horseback riding.

The dynamicGivenchy show had a triple theme, according to the designer Riccardo Tisci backstage, greeting a posse of his music industry fans, including Alicia Keys, Sean Combs and Kanye West.

"Horse riding, Guy Bourdin and Paris in the '70s," said Mr. Tisci, referring to the fashion photographer of perverse narratives, often laced with violence and gore.

That sanguine red dripped out of the dark palette, as flashes of scarlet under black leather, as rococo embroideries on little tops or lace dance dresses, tiny and sexy.

The rest of the show, from the galloping horses on the soundtrack as laser beams twirled, was elegantly equestrian. There were small leather riding jackets, perhaps mixed with fur, offering another chance for a splash of blood red on a fox fur panel.

This was a powerful presentation of the Tisci aesthetic: hard rock, but with the utmost luxury. It also positioned the ready-to- wear in relation to the Givenchy haute couture, which has become increasingly precious and upscale. Occasionally the two spirits are aligned, as in the white Oscars dress created for Rooney Mara of "The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo." It was the perfect meld of the two sides of Mr. Tisci's powerful vision.

The gaucho/sloucho look at Hermes did justice to the brand's mantra as a house of true luxury in its slow and measured place. On horseback, the models might have galloped around the courtyard of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. But as they were walking slowly on the runway, the better to see the finishing and the quality of the leather. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.