Newspaper article International Herald Tribune

In Milan, "Angry Young Men" to Camouflage

Newspaper article International Herald Tribune

In Milan, "Angry Young Men" to Camouflage

Article excerpt

A collection of reviews and collection notes from the winter 2013 shows.

"Angry young men -- still angry after 50 years -- and I think the young generation of today has the same anger," said Ennio Capasa, pointing to the mood board (led by Mick Jagger) for his Costume National collection. So the runway look was dark and narrow, from the David Bowie felt fedora through the skinny Jagger pants. Key pieces: the slim, zippered, above-the-knee coat; leather pants; drop- crotch trousers and biker jackets -- with a few patches of electric blue and fluffy sweaters to lighten it all up.

At Marni, full-on 1970s looks by Consuelo Castiglioni brought mustard, maroon and earth brown as the key colors. Sporty details included knitwear bonded with jersey, Oxford shirts and black leather duffel coats. Surprise elements: weasel fur as a back panel on a coat; dogtooth prints and digitally expanded flower patterns.

Behind a display of rich velvet jackets was a painting of a stampede of horses, soldiers and the chaos of war. The setting gave depth to Massimo Piombo's painterly color palette. Staged in the museum of the Italian Risorgimento -- the 19th-century movement for unification -- Mr. Piombo reached out to Hungary for alpaca jackets, to Austria for handframed wool, to Scotland for cashmere jacquard and to France's silk center in Lyon. The result? A collection saturated in color and texture, with the creator of MP by Massimo Piombo extolling the "sensuality of beauty."

The water lilies surrounding the wooden catwalk of Corneliani symbolized the landscape of the lagoon in Mantua, Italy, the company's home base. The design director Sergio Corneliani named his meld of sleek tailoring as "fusion style," perhaps in varying shades of gray, sleek leather jackets and deep pile knits. In this tactile show with surfaces of soft napa leather or fluffy alpaca, a stand- out piece among the fine knitwear was a sweater with interlinked rings inspired by Mantuan frescoes.

Making himself blend in with the surroundings is the artistic skill of Liu Bolin, the Chinese emperor of camouflage. The artist, above, went live as he stood in the Valentino boutique on Via Montenapoleone being decorated with painterly patterns on face and body. …

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