Newspaper article International New York Times

Missoni, with Texture

Newspaper article International New York Times

Missoni, with Texture

Article excerpt

Angela Missoni's winter 2014 collection had simple, sporty shapes in unusual knits and inventive effects.

If you can't tell the boys' clothes from the girls', that is just fine with Angela Missoni.

Like so many designers this season, she hit the sweet fashion spot by using simple, sporty shapes while putting her energy into extraordinary textures.

It helped that three-quarters of the Missoni show was in knit of some kind, although it was hard to believe that an apparently tweedy coat was, in fact, knitted.

That same reaction applied to many inventive effects of looped intarsia and chevron pattern.

Then there were the colors -- juicy and joyous, as sunflower yellow and orange with a dash of swimming pool blue appeared on coats, pants and sweaters in this excellent collection.

Texture is fashion's ongoing story for winter 2014. For the duo behind Aquilano.Rimondi the concept is often drawn from the richness of the past, a time when it was normal to mix tweed and velvet, sprinkle an outfit with appliqued roses or use fur buttons on a flannel jacket.

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi cited their inspiration as graphic Art Deco and the lush beauty of the films of Luchino Visconti. But the collection, with its pleated skirts or wafts of organza around the knees, caught the meld of fabrics that seems modern.

One way to define autumn 2014 fashion is the "feel" of winter -- meaning both the fabrics and their effect.

Gabriele Colangelotold his story graphically, like a black and white movie. Inspired by the watercolors of the German artist Joachim Bandau, the designer used a kind of shadow play to give a third dimension to streamlined clothes. Degradations of color, as black moved to gray, had a gentle, painterly effect.

The textures had a similar trajectory, with craft difficult to define from a distance, but adding to the feeling that handwork is one of the important features of Italy's promising young designers.

The winter 2014 show by Marco de Vincenzo was one indication why LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton announced on Monday that it is taking a minority stake of about 45 percent in the designer's company. …

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