Newspaper article Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (Pittsburgh, PA)

Munch Goes to the Bigham Tavern

Newspaper article Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (Pittsburgh, PA)

Munch Goes to the Bigham Tavern

Article excerpt

There's a minor sin of omission that we journalists are occasionally guilty of called "burying the lede." It occurs when in the course of writing a story, the alleged journo provides lesser details before getting to the main news crux of the story.

As in this case, when Munch wants to shout a bulletin like Walter Winchell: "Mr. & Mrs. America and all the ships at sea! -- Munch eats sandwich with five pork products!"

But Munch can't do that without first saying where said sandwich was procured -- the Bigham Tavern on Mount Washington. Seemingly forever, this place was a dingy joint called Kaib's until reopening in October 2010 under new ownership.

The bar is cleaned up but retains the look and feel of a handsome old tavern -- heavy on dark woodwork. A number of faux-vintage hand- painted wooden signs from the Old Glory Sign Co. in White Oak give a fun retro feel. In a scene Munch still isn't used to, patrons intently watched the Pirates game, even yelling at the screen at times like it was football. Speaking of football, Mike Wallace's name is mud here, although Antonio Brown is becoming a folk hero, at least to the guy named Tim sitting next to Munch.

Service was friendly, though uneven at times.

So about that sandwich.

That'd be the self-titled Bigham ($9) -- which really means BIG HAM. Bacon, cappicola, honey-roasted, honey-glazed and baked hams make up this hogzilla sandwich that's topped with a brown mustard and served with some crispy housemade chips.

Munch cannot possibly stress this enough: four kinds of ham. And bacon. Somewhere that "weeeeeee" pig from the Geico ads is getting nervous. This might be the first time Munch slipped into a food coma before actually eating.

But forget for a moment that Munch crammed the whole big honking thing down in like four bites. Forget that it was delicious. Forget that ingesting that many nitrates in a single sitting is probably as healthy as huffing on the business end of a Chrysler tailpipe. …

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