Newspaper article Sarasota Herald Tribune

Italian Dining, Transplanted from Siesta

Newspaper article Sarasota Herald Tribune

Italian Dining, Transplanted from Siesta

Article excerpt

After a long run, Pietro Migliaccio sold his popular Cafe Gabbiano restaurant on Siesta Key. But while he may be able to leave a restaurant, he apparently cannot leave the business. He has now resurfaced with a new venture, CasAntica on Palm Avenue, where he serves well-prepared Italian food familiar to regulars of Cafe Gabbiano.

CasAntica -- "old house" -- is aptly named, as it takes over the charming cottage on Palm that has been home to a variety of restaurants over the years. Zwiwwel, the most recent occupant, had given the place a dramatic makeover, a black and white minimalist design somewhat at odds with the building's architecture. CasAntica takes the decor in a completely different direction, playing up the luxuriousness of the setting. Well-padded chairs in deep plumb velour provide the seating at the smallish tables, while a profusion of drawings, paintings, photos and posters hangs on the deep yellow walls. A large fireplace commands one wall, and within it the flames from a gas burner dance merrily. It's quite cheerful and cozy.

The menu covers the usual progression of appetizers, pastas and main courses, the choices supplemented by daily specials. One of these was an Eggplant Rollitini, which was indeed quite special. The tender eggplant melded perfectly with the cheese and a flavorful tomato sauce; it was one of those preparations that disappeared from the plate before we realized it.

Those looking for something a little out of the ordinary will find it in the Lumache di Casa Nostra ($14.95), a house special that blends snails with potatoes in a casserole and bathes them in a spicy tomato sauce. It takes a very different approach from the better known Escargots Bourguignon, and it's a rewarding one, with the fra Diablo sauce adding a very nice touch.

Somewhere between the table and the kitchen our pasta order of Pappardelle Boscaiola ($19. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.