Newspaper article Sarasota Herald Tribune

New Blood in Cheap Eats

Newspaper article Sarasota Herald Tribune

New Blood in Cheap Eats

Article excerpt

Last month Ashton Goggans handed over the reins of our weekly Cheap Eats review to local writer and food-lover Cooper Levey- Baker. If you missed them, here are a few highlights of his first month on the job. You can find them all at dining.

El Mariachi Loco Latin Market

The tacos are simply dressed: blistered corn tortillas stacked with meat and served alongside lime wedges, diced onion and green chili sauce. To make the torta, my cook toasts the flat round bread on the grill, then slathers it with what I think is mayo and adds meat, tomato slices, shredded lettuce and pickled peppers and carrots, again offering up onion, lime and chilies for me to add to my liking.

Chipped metal chairs ring four low plastic tables; hot sauce and napkins are the only accessories at the ready. You'll need the napkins. Admittedly, El Mariachi's meat is a bit on the dry side, and the tacos suffer as a result. But the torta is a thing of wonder. The fresh toppings give the meat the juice the tacos lack, and while the thin, rich bun does its best to contain the mix, I'm dripping pastor all over as I dive into my half. Hours later, my hands still smell like pork. 6350 15th St. E., Sarasota; 751-0906.

White Horse Pub

It may seem silly to get so excited about good Buffalo wings. They're idiotically simple -- just fried chicken tossed in a spicy sauce. But if they're so simple to make, how come so many places are so terrible at making them? They're usually gelatinous instead of crispy, bland rather than spicy. Not at the White Horse, though. Here, the crunchy skin and breading sings through the slathering of sauce, which is properly burning up my taste buds. 6240 N. Lockwood Ridge Road, Sarasota; 358-1353,

The Garden

The Garden's interior reveals the true extent of its offerings. …

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