Newspaper article International New York Times

A 'Blank Slate' Revival at Mugler

Newspaper article International New York Times

A 'Blank Slate' Revival at Mugler

Article excerpt

David Koma says he wants the brand to make women feel "fierce, cool and sporty."

The walls, the lights and the first five outfits down the runway at Mugler were all searingly white, the color of a blank page.

That's not a writer's projection -- or not just one. David Koma, the recently installed designer, called his first runway collection a "tabula rasa."

Mugler, the once-namesake line of Thierry Mugler (who has long since both left the line and the name, and now goes by Manfred) has been revived again, and some palate cleansing is in order.

Mr. Koma is taking Mugler in a different direction from his immediate predecessors, Nicola Formichetti and Sebastien Peigne, who emphasized theatricality and artifice, as Mr. Mugler himself once did.

"It's been quite ... wow," said Mr. Koma, groping for the proper word to describe the collections that came before his own.

Mr. Koma's Mugler is sharp and streamlined, running in parallel to several other similarly aerodynamic, athletic and -- important to note -- revealing collections this week. …

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