Newspaper article International New York Times

Coffee Sets

Newspaper article International New York Times

Coffee Sets

Article excerpt

Finding the coffee set craftsmen down Kazandziluk (or coppersmith's) Street.

The ritual that is Bosanska (Bosnian) kafa is lost on many tourists as they navigate the beehive of trinket-peddling hawkers in the cobblestone alleys of Bascarsija, the Ottoman Quarter. But a trained ear can make out craftsmen coaxing copper into vessels used for preparing and drinking Sarajevo's beloved beverage.

On Kazandziluk (or coppersmith's) Street, across from Sebilj, find the wooden fountain in Bascarsija's main square. Midway down the narrow flagstone avenue, Muhamed Husejnovic sits in his shop, Kazandzijska Radnja (Kazandziluk 18), hammer-pinging coffee sets (around 50 Bosnian convertible marks, or KM, or $34 ), as Bosnians have done for 500 years.

"This work is not respected like it once was," said Mr. Husejnovic, whose family business goes back more than 200 years. "For every 100 cheap coffee sets sold in Bascarsija, I sell one."

Walk north, across the square, to another tiny atelier, Manufaktura (Kovaci 28), where the owner and coppersmith Abdulah Hadzic treats visitors to impromptu master classes, explaining how he turns his dzezvas (30 to 80 KM) into functional art. …

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