Newspaper article Manchester Evening News

Keep Things Nice and Easy. Just Head There for the Fish ; Fishmongers Is Swimming with the Eating out Tide and Has Given Part of the Shop over to a Restaurant, with Rather Good Results

Newspaper article Manchester Evening News

Keep Things Nice and Easy. Just Head There for the Fish ; Fishmongers Is Swimming with the Eating out Tide and Has Given Part of the Shop over to a Restaurant, with Rather Good Results

Article excerpt

THE best restaurants have always worked with fishmongers and butchers they can trust. The family owners of The EasyFish Company in leafy Heaton Moor have been supplying fish to customers for four generations. Their history stretches back to the days of Manchester's original Smithfields market in the Northern Quarter.

So with extensive space to the rear of the Heatons store which opened a few years ago, it made sense to open a cafe and deli to offer simple dishes when the fishmongers was open.

Highlights at that time were a top-notch fish pie and a mackerel sandwich that turned a budget lunch into a delight.

This year, after a period of refurbishment, the concept blossomed into a fully-fledged restaurant opening into the evening Wednesdays to Saturday.

The advantages are rather obvious - an abundance of the freshest possible fish. If there is a disadvantage it would be that, in contrast to the tables nearer to the front which are well-lit during daylight hours, the rear of the shop suffers a little from a dinginess.

Luckily, we grabbed a table suffused with sunshine on a very pleasant summer evening.

Although it is availble on the menu, surely only the most severe ichthyophobics would order a beef steak here.

The specials board was adorned with the ambitious offer of sea bream with red onion and fennel in lobster butter and a mussel and lemon sauce (Pounds 19.95).

But we opted to remove any clutter and allow the Easy Fish chefs to take it easy and let the fish do the talking. That was pretty much a guarantee of a pescatarian feast of the highest order.

Although I'm a sucker for brown crab meat, the crab claws with garlic, parsley and lemon mayonnaise (Pounds 5.50) were worth getting your fingers mucky for.

Another appetiser of fish roe, or budget caviar as I like to call it, on toast (Pounds 2.20) was as simple as could be but hit the spot nevertheless. …

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