Newspaper article International New York Times

Bouchra Jarrar to Create Lanvin Women's Wear

Newspaper article International New York Times

Bouchra Jarrar to Create Lanvin Women's Wear

Article excerpt

The designer, who is closing her own brand to concentrate on the new job, says she wants to "bring to Lanvin harmony and coherence."

A woman is once again at the helm of the house Jeanne Lanvin built. The Lanvin chief executive Michele Huiban confirmed late last week that Bouchra Jarrar had been named artistic director of women's collections and Ms. Jarrar began work on Monday.

According to Ms. Huiban, who spoke from Paris: "Bouchra seemed a natural for our house, founded by a woman. I felt an immediate and very true connection when we met."

In a phone call, Ms. Jarrar said, "I am honored to be part of the extraordinary history of the house, and all the great creators who came before me."

Lanvin is the oldest couture house continually in existence in Paris. The appointment of Ms. Jarrar, 45, follows the controversial ouster of its long-term creative director, Alber Elbaz, in October, and a poorly received women's wear collection created by the internal design team last week. A beloved fashion figure, Mr. Elbaz was widely seen as being almost irreplaceable.

However, the choice of Ms. Jarrar, who is respected for her distinctive and disciplined point of view, as expressed most often in an inventive way with a tuxedo suit, is a canny one. She has an impeccable fashion pedigree, having started her career under Jean Paul Gaultier, and then been studio director for Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga, and head of couture design for Christian Lacroix. She opened her own brand in 2010, became a part of the official couture schedule in 2013 and is one of the few independent female designers working in Paris. Though slight and soft-spoken, she is known for a steely determination and has the good will of the industry.

In announcing the appointment, Ms. Huiban said: "Her timeless style is in agreement with the style and values of our house. Her talent, her rigor, her mastery of the body and materials will bring to the house of Lanvin a freshness and modernity while respecting its historic couture soul, a symbol of French elegance. …

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