Newspaper article Manchester Evening News

Rather Impossible to Enjoy

Newspaper article Manchester Evening News

Rather Impossible to Enjoy

Article excerpt

IMPOSSIBLE arrived on Peter Street with something of a fanfare recently - thanks to a £3m fit out in a building that's hard to miss.

It's also been a tough nut to crack for incoming operators too, since its days at Bar 38. A couple have tried, with short-lived success. Peter Street has changed much since then - for the better - thanks largely to smart brands and operators like Brewdog and Albert's Schloss. There's still a nod to the weekend glitz of Peter Street old - places like Sakana and Liv.

Impossible pulled out all the stops across the huge three-floor venue - a hidden gin palace, cryogenically frozen cocktails and a champagne bubble machine were just some of the gimmicks and gizmos thrown at the place by Tokyo Industries, which runs bars, and restaurants all over the world.

We're on the ground floor today, looking behind all the pizzazz at the (admittedly smart) restaurant. It's big - 280 covers - and the menu is suitably rangy too. Burgers, tacos, salads, shared plates. All the usuals. All corners of the globe and possible influences are here.

We start with a shared plate - or bucket - of curried mussels (£8). These are good actually, a rich and creamy but non too spicy sauce adds depth to the plump mussels. The 'toasted' naan breads are, however, like tiny surfboards, and would probably be more use getting us down the rainy street outside than they would as an accompaniment to the mussels.

Let's zig-zag across the culinary globe now, and on to the tacos - three for £6 on the express lunch menu. There clearly seems to be some issue with bread and moisture here, as the tacos themselves are a dry affair. …

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