Newspaper article Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (Pittsburgh, PA)

"Onions Etcetera: The Essential Allium Cookbook" by Kate Winslow and Guy Ambrosino: Bistec Palomillo

Newspaper article Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (Pittsburgh, PA)

"Onions Etcetera: The Essential Allium Cookbook" by Kate Winslow and Guy Ambrosino: Bistec Palomillo

Article excerpt

You can get to know everything you want to know about alliums from this one book. It's comprehensive but not complicated. While it gives a nod to the year-round staples ? yellow, red and white onions ? it also features scallions in sesame pancakes, chives in pasta dough, leeks in a tart with feta and dill, pearl onions in a Greek beef stew, cipollini with duck and cherries and garlic scapes with fried rice. And an added bonus? Guy Ambrosino's scrumptious photographs. Starting from the cover, each photo will make you fall in love with alliums.

Kate Winslow says: Bistec Palomillo can be done a whole day ahead. It needs to marinate, and on the day of, it all comes together in a flash. The onions should be cooked quickly so that they still have a bite to them; they should not be soft.

Hosting Thanksgiving: We have hosted Thanksgiving only a couple of times. We did it two years, and it was exhausting. We had 22 people over. We are happy to go somewhere else; it's more relaxing that way. This year, we are going to Guy's mom's place, which is 45 minutes north of us in New Jersey..

Her contributions: I think creative dishes become traditional over time. I make an escarole salad that has fennel, pomegranate, red onions and some kind of citrus. I also make an apple pie with a Bizcochito [a lard-based cookie flavored with anise and brandy] crust.

Divvying up work with Guy: I do a lot of the cooking. I get territorial in the kitchen much to Guy's dismay.

Grandma's stuffing: My grandma made a stuffing with white bread, butter, celery, poultry seasoning, chicken broth and chopped yellow onions. It was always cooked inside the bird. I can see the steak and onions being served with the stuffing. It is unorthodox, but it can be done.

Pittsburgh memories: I grew up in Swissvale and went to Woodland Hills School District. On Thanksgiving Eve, my family had a longstanding tradition of driving Downtown to see the Christmas windows at Horne's and Gimbel's. …

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