The Desert of the Exodus: Journeys on Foot in the Wilderness of the Forty Years' Wanderings; Undertaken in Connection with the Ordnance Survey of Sinai and the Palestine Exploration Fund

By E. H. Palmer | Go to book overview

CHAPTER XXIII.
FROM PETRA TO SHÍHÁN.

Packing up. — Annoyances from the Fellahín. — Wády Beidhá. — The 'Ammarín break Faith with us. — El Beidhá and El Bárid. — Rock-hewn Temples and Dwellings. — Fulfillment of Prophecy. — Nagb Nemelah. — More Quarrels with the 'Ammarin. — We are stopped on the High-road. — Wády Fiddán. — The Arabah again. — Night-march through the Ghor. — Ghor es Sáfí. — Encampment of the Ghawgrineh. — A wounded Robber. — Gasr el Basháríyeh. — Seil Garáhí. — The Dead Sea. — The Waters of Nimrim. — Abu K'taineh. — Rock-hewn Hermitage. — Ghor el Mezári. — El Lisán. — Ruins. El 'Aríl. — Bathe in the Dead Sea. — Visit from Sheik Ahmed ibn Taríf.

PACKING up was rather a difficult process, with the Fellahín abusing each other and hustling us the whole time; every minute some of our valuables were snatched up and carried off by one or other of the crowd, and to recover them required no little exercise of patience and of limb. At last, however, we did get away without any serious loss, and left Petra accompanied by every male member of the Liyátheneh encampment. A more noisy or ruffianly escort than ours it would be difficult to imagine; each man fancied that his neighbor had got something from us, and that he himself was defrauded by our being allowed to leave before he had obtained his share. The discussions to which this state of feeling gave rise were not altogether reassuring. At one time it seemed that they would come to blows among themselves for the possession of the plunder which each thought the other had already secreted; at another, they were unanimously agreed that it was foolish to let so much property slip through their hands, and a general attack upon our goods and chattels appeared imminent. But by playing off against one another the Liyátheneh chief and the 'Ammarín Sheik who accompanied us, and by preserving an unconcerned demeanor,

-375-

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