Fashion Spreads: Word and Image in Fashion Photography since 1980

By Paul Jobling | Go to book overview

Notes
1
As we have seen in Part 1, Vogue had included men in fashion images since the late 1920s, while Man About Town, which was launched in 1953 and was latterly known as About Town and Town during the 1960s, featured fashion photographs with men represented in isolation or with other men.
2
R. Coward, Female Desires: How They Are Sought, Bought and Packaged(New York, 1985), p. 227.
3
Julia Kristeva, Powers of Horror: An Essay in Abjection, trans. L. S. Roudiez (New York, 1982 [1980]), p. 32.
4
H. Cixous, ‘The Laugh of the Medusa’, in E. Marks and I. de Courtivron (eds), New French Feminisms, (New York, 1981), p. 247.
5
G. O'Brien, ‘Pink Thoughts’, in The Idealizing Vision: The Art of Fashion Photography (New York, 1991), p. 78.
6
M. Gross, Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women (London and New York, 1995), pp. 45–7.
7
See E. Wilson, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (London, 1985), Chapter 9. Of the dandy she writes: ‘The role of the dandy implied an intense preoccupation with self and self presentation; image was everything, and the dandy a man who often had no family, no calling, apparently no sexual life, no visible means of financial support. He was the very archetype of the new urban man who came from nowhere, and for whom appearance was reality. His devotion to an ideal of dress that sanctified understatement inaugurated an epoch not of no fashions for men, but of fashions that put cut and fit before ornament, colour and display. The skin-tight breeches of the dandy were highly erotic; so was his new, unpainted masculinity. The dandy was a narcissist. He did not abandon the pursuit of beauty; he changed the kind of beauty that was admired’ (p. 180).
8
M. Bolan quoted by N. Cohn, ‘Ready, steady, gone’, The Observer Magazine(27 August 1967), p. 12.
9
‘Ken Rodway, A Sort of Male Model’ in Look-In Fashion Model Annual(London, Independent Television Publications Ltd., 1971), pp. 17–22.
10
B. D'Silva, ‘Some like it Hoyt’, FHM (September 1993), p. 112.
11
See S. Garratt interview with Nick Moss in The Face (August 1993), p. 60; A. Heath, ‘Sonic boom boy’, The Face (April 1994), pp. 80–5; N. Compton, ‘Likely Lads’, The Face (August 1995), pp. 40–51; and Male Super Models: The Men of Boss Models (New York, 1996), p. 32.
12
J. Lacan, ‘The Mirror Stage as formative of the function of the I’ (1949) in Écrits: A Selection, trans. A. Sheridan (New York, 1977), p. 2.
13
These typologies were foregrounded in Mc Cann-Erickson's ‘Man Study Report’, which was presented by Colin Bowring at the Institute of Practitioners in Advertising on 18 June 1984, and subsequently promoted by Marplan. See S. Marquis, ‘The publishing conundrum: How to reach the “New Man”’, Campaign (26 July 1985), p. 39.
14
Cobbett was a prolific polemicist, between 1802 and 1835 publishing Cobbett's

-180-

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Fashion Spreads: Word and Image in Fashion Photography since 1980
Table of contents

Table of contents

  • Title Page *
  • Contents vii
  • Acknowledgements ix
  • List of Figures xi
  • Introduction 1
  • Notes *
  • Part 1 - Back to the Future: Fashion Publishing since 1980 15
  • Introductionto Part 1 17
  • Notes *
  • 1 - Vogue 19
  • Notes *
  • 2 - The Face 35
  • Notes *
  • 3 - Arena 49
  • Notes *
  • Conclusion - To Part 1 59
  • Notes *
  • Part 2 - Written Clothing and Image- Clothing: Roland Barthes' ‘the Fashion System' in Perspective 63
  • Introductionto Part 2 65
  • Notes *
  • 4 - ‘the Fashion System’: a Synopsis 69
  • Notes *
  • 5 - Going beyond ‘the Fashion System’: a Critique 83
  • Notes *
  • Conclusion - To Part 2 101
  • Notes *
  • Part 3 - Bodylines: Identity and Othernessin Fashion Photography since 1980 105
  • Introductionto Part 3 107
  • Notes *
  • 6 - Who's That Girl? Alex and Kate: a Tale of Two Bodies in Contemporary Fashion Photography 111
  • Notes 136
  • 7 - ‘statue Men’: the Phallic Body, Identity and Ambiguity in Fashion Photography 143
  • Notes 180
  • Appendix 1 - Directoryof Fashion Photographers, Stylistsand Magazine Features 1980–1996 189
  • Appendix 2 - Photographersfor British ‘vogue’1980–1995 211
  • Bibliography 215
  • Index 235
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