Harvest of Skulls

By Abdourahman A. Waberi; Dominic Thomas | Go to book overview

BUJUMBURA BEACH

I’m staring at the driver’s neck in the taxi taking me from the airport to the center of Bujumbura. You can’t really avoid looking at it at some point during the ride, especially when you’re sitting in the backseat right behind him. Suddenly I notice two slashes, the one horizontal at the nape of the neck and the other vertical, running down the side of his skull. My senses are aroused before I have even set foot in the capital.

Although this is my first time in this airport, there’s something familiar about it. I’ve felt like this on numerous occasions previously when arriving in the airport of an African capital I’m about to discover. Similar fragrances mixed in with the warm air and dust, the same indolent welcome at customs, and sometimes even the tropical architecture intermingled with oriental influences. With the time it takes to get from the plane to the terminal, you can literally take the temperature. This is something you can no longer do in ultramodern airports where you go straight from the antrum of the Boeing jet or Airbus to waiting in line to clear customs without so much as seeing the color of the sky or feeling the cold of day.

-42-

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Harvest of Skulls
Table of contents

Table of contents

  • Global African Voices ii
  • Title Page iii
  • Contents v
  • Preface- Postgenocide Rwanda ix
  • Acknowledgments xxi
  • Fictions 1
  • Terminus 3
  • The Cavalcade 16
  • And the Dogs Feasted 22
  • Stories 27
  • No, Kigali Is Not Sad 29
  • Return to Kigali 33
  • Bujumbura Beach 42
  • Afterword 49
  • Note on Translations 51
  • Notes 53
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