5 More Restaurants Touched by the Hand of Keith Hobbs

The Evening Standard (London, England), July 14, 2004 | Go to article overview

5 More Restaurants Touched by the Hand of Keith Hobbs


Byline: FAY MASCHLER

NOBU

Metropolitan Hotel, Old Park Lane, W1 (020 7447 4747) [pounds sterling]65 Understated, almost monochromatic decor - some say dull - provides a tactful background against which celebrity birds of Paradise and Prada can sparkle and shine (pity they mostly wear black). It also suits the ethos of artistically presented Japanese food, even that with a Peruvian twist. But it is a bit dull.

GORDON RAMSAY

68-69 Royal Hospital Road, SW3 (020 7352 4441) [pounds sterling]100 I wonder what sort of client Mr Ramsay is. Forceful, I should imagine. Anyway, his signature aubergine colour is firmly in evidence on the canopy and tormented Venetian glass ornaments catch the eye in what, since the days of Tante Claire, has always been an awkward space for a restaurant. But one that reliably attracts Michelin stars.

QUADRATO

Four Seasons Hotel, Westferry Circus, E14 (020 7510 1857) [pounds sterling]55 I hope Keith Hobbs also plants trees. United Designs tends to favour acres of wood panelling and here in Canary Wharf the hotel's Italian restaurant is reached through seven-storey mahogany doors on the front of an eight-storey building. …

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5 More Restaurants Touched by the Hand of Keith Hobbs
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