A Welcome Feast from the East; Restaurant of the Week

The Evening Standard (London, England), November 12, 2009 | Go to article overview

A Welcome Feast from the East; Restaurant of the Week


Byline: Fay Maschler

MADE IN CHINA ***

37 Monck Street SW1(020 7222 2281). Open daily noon-3pm & 5.30-11pm. A meal for two with wine, about [pounds sterling]74 including 12.5 per cent service.

HAVE you noticed how seldom a new Chinese restaurant opens these days? It is doubtless the case that second or third generation young Chinese have more sense than to go into the business and instead become hedge-fund managers or dentists. The hours are better.

On top of that, if budding Chinese catering entrepreneurs do exist, they are held back from bringing in skilled chefs from their homeland by everstricter immigration laws. Now it is demanded of incoming chefs that they have an existing command of English language up to GCSE grade C. It is more than we ask of our own.

Chinese restaurants are popular -- the desire to have a Chinese meal grips me at least once a week -- and perhaps that explains why the owners of the Japanese restaurant Atami in Westminster have recently relaunched it as Made in China. A restaurant of that name used to exist in Fulham Road but closed a few years ago.

Maybe the chefs hadn't been able successfully to parse an extract from Pride and Prejudice.

My husband Reg Gadney, keener even than I am on Chinese food, says that he loves parts of London that are bustling during the day but deserted at night. If you read his novels you will understand why. The corner of Great Peter Street and Monck Street adjacent to the hideous Home Office and opposite what looks like a church mission fulfils the brief admirably. Light shining from the glazed walls of Made in China makes the restaurant glow in the darkened, silent streets like an Edward Hopper painting.

Inside you might say economies have been made with the revamp or you could observe that almost nothing at all has been done to alter the only mildly attractive minimalist decor. Perched on what was the sushi bar there is now a glass box that looks like an aquarium for vegetables. Closer inspection reveals fresh fish reclining at the base.

Following a trend led most notably by Yauatcha in Soho, dim-sum are served in the evenings as well as daytime. I'm guessing, but based on the assorted steamed dumplings ([pounds sterling]9 for eight pieces) I'd say they employ an in-house dim-sum chef. Or maybe they just know the right place to buy. The wrappings of har gau, chicken sui mai, scallop and prawn, and pork and chive dumplings were finely drawn and delicate, and the fillings bouncy. …

The rest of this article is only available to active members of Questia

Already a member? Log in now.

Notes for this article

Add a new note
If you are trying to select text to create highlights or citations, remember that you must now click or tap on the first word, and then click or tap on the last word.
One moment ...
Default project is now your active project.
Project items
Notes
Cite this article

Cited article

Style
Citations are available only to our active members.
Buy instant access to cite pages or passages in MLA 8, MLA 7, APA and Chicago citation styles.

(Einhorn, 1992, p. 25)

(Einhorn 25)

(Einhorn 25)

1. Lois J. Einhorn, Abraham Lincoln, the Orator: Penetrating the Lincoln Legend (Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1992), 25, http://www.questia.com/read/27419298.

Note: primary sources have slightly different requirements for citation. Please see these guidelines for more information.

Cited article

A Welcome Feast from the East; Restaurant of the Week
Settings

Settings

Typeface
Text size Smaller Larger Reset View mode
Search within

Search within this article

Look up

Look up a word

  • Dictionary
  • Thesaurus
Please submit a word or phrase above.
Print this page

Print this page

Why can't I print more than one page at a time?

Help
Full screen
Items saved from this article
  • Highlights & Notes
  • Citations
Some of your highlights are legacy items.

Highlights saved before July 30, 2012 will not be displayed on their respective source pages.

You can easily re-create the highlights by opening the book page or article, selecting the text, and clicking “Highlight.”

matching results for page

    Questia reader help

    How to highlight and cite specific passages

    1. Click or tap the first word you want to select.
    2. Click or tap the last word you want to select, and you’ll see everything in between get selected.
    3. You’ll then get a menu of options like creating a highlight or a citation from that passage of text.

    OK, got it!

    Cited passage

    Style
    Citations are available only to our active members.
    Buy instant access to cite pages or passages in MLA 8, MLA 7, APA and Chicago citation styles.

    "Portraying himself as an honest, ordinary person helped Lincoln identify with his audiences." (Einhorn, 1992, p. 25).

    "Portraying himself as an honest, ordinary person helped Lincoln identify with his audiences." (Einhorn 25)

    "Portraying himself as an honest, ordinary person helped Lincoln identify with his audiences." (Einhorn 25)

    "Portraying himself as an honest, ordinary person helped Lincoln identify with his audiences."1

    1. Lois J. Einhorn, Abraham Lincoln, the Orator: Penetrating the Lincoln Legend (Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1992), 25, http://www.questia.com/read/27419298.

    Cited passage

    Thanks for trying Questia!

    Please continue trying out our research tools, but please note, full functionality is available only to our active members.

    Your work will be lost once you leave this Web page.

    Buy instant access to save your work.

    Already a member? Log in now.

    Search by... Author
    Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

    Oops!

    An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.