Combine Chinese seasonings with French-style presentation and ingredients for an intriguing cuisine that San Francisco restaurateur Tommy Toy calls haute cuisine chinoise. It's this mix of East and West that makes his dishes unique.

These two examples-fried won ton filled with crab and cheese, and sauteed chicken breast marinated with Southeast Asian flavors can easily be duplicated at home. Look for garlic chives, plum sauce, and lemon grass in some supermarkets and Asian markets, or use alternatives.

Won Ton with Crab and Cheese

1 large package (8 oz.) cream cheese, at room temperature

1/2 teaspoon Oriental sesame oil (optional)

1/4 teaspoon steak sauce or soy sauce

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1 1/4 cups (about 4 oz.) thinly sliced garlic chives, or regular chives plus 2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced 1/2 pound shelled cooked crab 1 package (14 oz.) won ton skins About 1 tablespoon beaten egg Salad oil

Plum sauce, or 1/2 cup red wine vinegar mixed with 2 tablespoons water and 1 tablespoon finely shredded pickled ginger

In a small bowl, beat cream cheese, sesame oil, steak sauce, and pepper until smooth. Mix in chives and crab.

Place a won ton skin on a flat surface (cover remaining skins with plastic wrap to keep pliable). Mound 1 teaspoon filling in 1 corner. Fold that corner over filling, and roll to tuck point under. Moisten the 2 side corners with egg and bring together, overlapping slightly. Press firmly to seal. Place filled won ton on a flour-dusted baking sheet (or sheets) and cover while you fill the remaining skins; place slightly apart. If made ahead, cover and chill up to 8 hours.

In a wok or 3- to 4-quart pan, pour oil to a depth of 1 to 1 1/2 inches; heat to 350[deg].

Fry 4 to 6 won ton at a time, turning occasionally, until golden, about 1 minute. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Keep warm in a 200[deg] oven until all are cooked, then serve with plum sauce or vinegar mixture for dipping. …