Restaurant: La Porte Des Indes, Ragam and Deedar

By Fingleton, David | The Spectator, October 26, 1996 | Go to article overview

Restaurant: La Porte Des Indes, Ragam and Deedar


Fingleton, David, The Spectator


ACCORDING to Peter Harden, whose invaluable guide, London Restaurants 1997, has just appeared, there are some 3,000 Indian restaurants in Greater London. This makes the subcontinent the leading category of London restaurant. Until recently there was but one kind of Indian restaurant; in fact mainly Bangladeshi or Pakistani, with flock wallpaper and serving curries and tandooris. But the last decade or so has seen the appearance of two further types: the south Indian vegetarian, and the glamorous de luxe restaurant with themed menus and prices that match its European neighbours. I decided to try one of each.

I took Adrian George, the artist (in keeping with the Editor's request that, when it might interest readers, I name my accomplice - I hate that phrase `my companion') and a long-term aficionado of Indian cooking. Our first outing was to the latest luxury venue, La Porte des Indes. The style here is French-Creole Indian cuisine from Pondicherry, and a vast, 300-seat, two-level dining hall has been constructed around an atrium and foaming fountain. `It's not like India at all,' reflected Adrian, as he gazed down on the frothing waters. `You'd think you were at Miami Beach.' La Porte was far from full the night we went, but the service was friendly and helpful. You could give them full marks for trying, if not for cooking.

This is split between `Les Indes francaises' in the first part of the menu, and 'Voyage a travers des Indes' thereafter. I decided to go for the French and Adrian went for the rest of India. But La Porte's cooking tasted uniformly bland from wherever it stemmed. My starter of Demoiselles de Pondicherry was two little scallops on the shell, in a creamy, nondescript sauce devoid of the curried saffron suggested on the menu. Adrian's Parsee fish, cooked in a banana leaf with coriander and mint, was distinctly better. Then I had Plateau des Indes francaises (16), a selection of meagre helpings of poultry, fish and vegetables, all, apart from a spicy aubergine dish, unexciting. Adrian went for the Tandoori Selection (18), of which the same could be said. The wild riz de coco, with curry leaves and coconut was excellent, however. Adrian finished with a pistachio kulfi (Indian icecream) which tasted factory- rather than home-made, and I had an underspiced and oversugared masala tea. With two flowerbedecked lassis and three halves of Indian lager at 3.50 a shot, the bill came to an astounding 86.34, including 121/2 per cent service. When my card slip was presented for signature the bottom line was left blank, `in case you want to add extra service,' suggested the hostess. …

The rest of this article is only available to active members of Questia

Already a member? Log in now.

Notes for this article

Add a new note
If you are trying to select text to create highlights or citations, remember that you must now click or tap on the first word, and then click or tap on the last word.
One moment ...
Default project is now your active project.
Project items
Notes
Cite this article

Cited article

Style
Citations are available only to our active members.
Buy instant access to cite pages or passages in MLA 8, MLA 7, APA and Chicago citation styles.

(Einhorn, 1992, p. 25)

(Einhorn 25)

(Einhorn 25)

1. Lois J. Einhorn, Abraham Lincoln, the Orator: Penetrating the Lincoln Legend (Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1992), 25, http://www.questia.com/read/27419298.

Note: primary sources have slightly different requirements for citation. Please see these guidelines for more information.

Cited article

Restaurant: La Porte Des Indes, Ragam and Deedar
Settings

Settings

Typeface
Text size Smaller Larger Reset View mode
Search within

Search within this article

Look up

Look up a word

  • Dictionary
  • Thesaurus
Please submit a word or phrase above.
Print this page

Print this page

Why can't I print more than one page at a time?

Help
Full screen
Items saved from this article
  • Highlights & Notes
  • Citations
Some of your highlights are legacy items.

Highlights saved before July 30, 2012 will not be displayed on their respective source pages.

You can easily re-create the highlights by opening the book page or article, selecting the text, and clicking “Highlight.”

matching results for page

    Questia reader help

    How to highlight and cite specific passages

    1. Click or tap the first word you want to select.
    2. Click or tap the last word you want to select, and you’ll see everything in between get selected.
    3. You’ll then get a menu of options like creating a highlight or a citation from that passage of text.

    OK, got it!

    Cited passage

    Style
    Citations are available only to our active members.
    Buy instant access to cite pages or passages in MLA 8, MLA 7, APA and Chicago citation styles.

    "Portraying himself as an honest, ordinary person helped Lincoln identify with his audiences." (Einhorn, 1992, p. 25).

    "Portraying himself as an honest, ordinary person helped Lincoln identify with his audiences." (Einhorn 25)

    "Portraying himself as an honest, ordinary person helped Lincoln identify with his audiences." (Einhorn 25)

    "Portraying himself as an honest, ordinary person helped Lincoln identify with his audiences."1

    1. Lois J. Einhorn, Abraham Lincoln, the Orator: Penetrating the Lincoln Legend (Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1992), 25, http://www.questia.com/read/27419298.

    Cited passage

    Thanks for trying Questia!

    Please continue trying out our research tools, but please note, full functionality is available only to our active members.

    Your work will be lost once you leave this Web page.

    Buy instant access to save your work.

    Already a member? Log in now.

    Search by... Author
    Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

    Oops!

    An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.