V CROSSING THE SIERRA OCCIDENTAL

MEXICO'S ambition to pierce the Sierra Occidental has been achieved in a daring but safe road between Durango and the port of Mazatlán on the Sea of Cortés. Joining the Durango-Monterrey road, this would make the first west-east crossing of the Republic north of Vera Cruz. It would expedite the shipping of oil from Tampico on the Gulf of Mexico and open up much territory to trade. It would also make accessible such mountain splendor as is seldom equaled.

This would be something to see, but I decided to leave my car in Durango. Driving ten or twelve hours over a twisting mountain road could not be classed as diversion. I decided to patronize the Transportes del Norte, paying thirty pesos, then about $3.50, for a front seat on the bus. At seven in the morning I found the bus station occupied by a sleepy clerk and two nondescript men, probably traveling salesmen. We all showed our tickets, surrendered our suitcases, and sat shivering in the morning chill. Nobody feels chatty at such an hour.

It was Sunday. Bells had been calling to Mass, and shrouded women and children were crossing the plaza toward the church. Suddenly our polite reserves were broken by the entrance of a small, untidy man carrying a battered carton carelessly roped. He began at once to talk, as though we had been a party of friends awaiting his arrival. "You should visit the Templo de San Agustín," he urged. "It is

-47-

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Mexico Revisited
Table of contents

Table of contents

  • Title Page *
  • Foreword *
  • Contents *
  • Illustrations *
  • Part One- South toward the Center 1
  • II- Chihuahua 17
  • III- Tarahumara and the Barrancas de Cobre 26
  • IV- Durango and Zacatecas 33
  • Part Two- Mexico''s North 45
  • V- Crossing the Sierra Occidental 47
  • VI- West of the Sierra Madre 55
  • VII- La Laguna and the Ejido System 63
  • VIII- A Gringo Mexican 74
  • IX- Francisco Madero 83
  • X- Monterrey 88
  • Part Three- Indian Backgrounds 99
  • XII- Yucatán 111
  • XIII- Mexico''s Maya Ruins 121
  • XIV- The Valley of Oaxaca 130
  • XV- Chiapas and the Indian Problem 139
  • Part Four- Conquest from the Gulf 149
  • XVI- Spanish Conquest 151
  • XVII- Conquest from the North 158
  • XVIII- Reconquest for Mexico 162
  • Part Five- Mexico''s Heartland 167
  • XIX- San Luis Potosĺ 169
  • XX- querétaro 180
  • XXI- San Miguel Allende 191
  • XXII- Guanajuato 199
  • XXIV- Uruapan 218
  • XXV- Pátzcuaro and Morelia 227
  • Part Seven- South to the Pacific 235
  • XXVI- Cuernavaca 237
  • XXVII- Taxco 245
  • XXVIII- Acapulco 254
  • Part Eight- East to the Gulf 261
  • XXX- Huejotzingo and Tlaxcala 277
  • XXXI- Puebla de Los Angeles 284
  • Part Nine- Capital and Center 293
  • XXXII- Mexico, the Capital 295
  • XXXIII- Folk Art Becomes Big Business 305
  • XXXIV- People of the Capital 314
  • XXXV- Mexico Moves on 324
  • BOOKS RECOMMENDED FOR FURTHER READING IN ENGLISH 337
  • BOOKS CONSULTED IN SPANISH 340
  • Glossary 342
  • Index i
  • A Note on the Type v
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