XXII GUANAJUATO

IN GUANAJUATO the chamaco, often so annoying, proves himself altogether indispensable. The first one I refused trotted patiently along the narrow twisting streets until I was hopelessly confused. Traffic lights are especially baffling, as cars must stop half a block away from corners too constricted for passing. Guanajuato's streets are exceptionally clean, trash boxes abound, and flat green pavingstones have replaced the original cobbles; they are quite as picturesque and less likely to cause turned ankles or bruised tires. This was the idea of the 1950 mayor, who also diverted a small stream and paved its bed for a street between stone banks that still show the waterline. Guanajuato's plazas are on two or three levels; many lanes are stone steps; one is narrow enough to be called the Lane of the Kiss. The University, topping a stairway, is almost as hard to reach as a pyramid; when the city presented a series of Cervantes's plays, the steps were used as seats and the plaza as a stage.

The chamaco, keeping me on the right path, brought me to the Posada de la Presa (Inn of the Dam), where Ricardo, a dignified gentleman of eight years, explained that in his father's absence he could show the rooms. At suppertime I found the sitting-room shut off from the patio by heavy curtains and a brisk fire snapping. Clearly somebody understood the gringo. Two people did, both Manuel Valenzuela, who came in for supper, and his wife, Felícitas. Felícitas, a bit shy about her English, devotes herself to her kitchen, which produces a rare and wonderful combination of Mex-

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Mexico Revisited
Table of contents

Table of contents

  • Title Page *
  • Foreword *
  • Contents *
  • Illustrations *
  • Part One- South toward the Center 1
  • II- Chihuahua 17
  • III- Tarahumara and the Barrancas de Cobre 26
  • IV- Durango and Zacatecas 33
  • Part Two- Mexico''s North 45
  • V- Crossing the Sierra Occidental 47
  • VI- West of the Sierra Madre 55
  • VII- La Laguna and the Ejido System 63
  • VIII- A Gringo Mexican 74
  • IX- Francisco Madero 83
  • X- Monterrey 88
  • Part Three- Indian Backgrounds 99
  • XII- Yucatán 111
  • XIII- Mexico''s Maya Ruins 121
  • XIV- The Valley of Oaxaca 130
  • XV- Chiapas and the Indian Problem 139
  • Part Four- Conquest from the Gulf 149
  • XVI- Spanish Conquest 151
  • XVII- Conquest from the North 158
  • XVIII- Reconquest for Mexico 162
  • Part Five- Mexico''s Heartland 167
  • XIX- San Luis Potosĺ 169
  • XX- querétaro 180
  • XXI- San Miguel Allende 191
  • XXII- Guanajuato 199
  • XXIV- Uruapan 218
  • XXV- Pátzcuaro and Morelia 227
  • Part Seven- South to the Pacific 235
  • XXVI- Cuernavaca 237
  • XXVII- Taxco 245
  • XXVIII- Acapulco 254
  • Part Eight- East to the Gulf 261
  • XXX- Huejotzingo and Tlaxcala 277
  • XXXI- Puebla de Los Angeles 284
  • Part Nine- Capital and Center 293
  • XXXII- Mexico, the Capital 295
  • XXXIII- Folk Art Becomes Big Business 305
  • XXXIV- People of the Capital 314
  • XXXV- Mexico Moves on 324
  • BOOKS RECOMMENDED FOR FURTHER READING IN ENGLISH 337
  • BOOKS CONSULTED IN SPANISH 340
  • Glossary 342
  • Index i
  • A Note on the Type v
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