Nile Notes of a Howadji

By George William Curtis | Go to book overview

XXVIII.
PHILÆ.

I wish Philæ were as lovely as the melody of its name imports. But I do not dare to call Isis by the name of Venus--or if the Palmyrene Zenobia, following the triumph of Aurelian, was pretty-- then is Philæ chained to the car of time, lovely. Poet Eliot Warburton, indeed, speaks of its "exquisite beauty." What shall the Howadji do with these poets?

Girdled with the shining Nile, Philæ is an austere beauty--Isis-like, it sits solemn-browed, column crushing column, pylons yet erect, and whole sides of temple courts yet standing with perfect pillars-- huge decay, wherein grandeur is yet grand. It is strange to see human traces so lovely in a spot so lonely. Strange, after the death in life of the Nile valley, to emerge upon life in death so imperial as Philæ. For you remember that the Ibis did not pause at the temples, but beheld Thebes and Dendereh, as she flew, like pictures fading on the air.

-197-

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Nile Notes of a Howadji
Table of contents

Table of contents

  • Title Page iii
  • Preface. vii
  • Contents ix
  • I- Going to Boulak. 1
  • II- The Drag'-O-Men. 10
  • III- Hadji Hamed. 22
  • IV- The Ibis Sings. 29
  • V- The Crew. 37
  • VI- The Ibis Flies. 47
  • VII- The Landscape. 54
  • VIII- Tracking. 61
  • IX- Flying. 67
  • X- Verde Giovane and Fellow-Mariners. 71
  • XI- Verde Piu Giovane. 77
  • XII- Asyoot. 85
  • Xiii. The Sun. 96
  • Xiv. Thebes Triumphant. 103
  • Xv. The Crocodile. 105
  • Xvi. Getting Ashore. 114
  • Xvii. Fair Frailty. 117
  • Xviii. Fair Frailty--Continued. 124
  • Xix. Kushuk Arnem. 130
  • Xx. Terpsichore. 140
  • Xxi. Sakias. 146
  • Xxiii. Alms! O Shopkeeper! 152
  • Xxiv. Syene. 168
  • Xxv. The Treaty of Syene. 175
  • Xxvi. The Cataract. 184
  • Xxvii. Nubian Welcome. 192
  • Xxviii. Philæ. 197
  • Xxix. A Crow That Flies in Heaven's Sweetest Air. 206
  • Xxx. Southward. 215
  • Xxxi. Ultima Thule. 224
  • Xxxii. Northward. 234
  • Xxxiii. By the Grace of God. 250
  • Xxxvii. Dead Kings. 293
  • Xxxviii. Buried. 300
  • Xxxix. Dead Queens. 308
  • Xl. Et Cetera. 312
  • Xli. The Memnonium. 316
  • Xlii. Medeenet Haboo. 321
  • Xliii. Karnak. 329
  • Xliv. Pruning. 339
  • Xlv. Per Contra. 346
  • Xlvi. Memphis. 352
  • Xlvii. Sunset. 361
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