The Pathos of Distance: A Book of a Thousand and One Moments

By James Huneker | Go to book overview

VII
NEW PROMENADES OF AN IMPRESSIONIST

I ART IN COLOGNE AND CASSEL

IN Cologne of course you go to the cathedral; every one does, even the Colognese on Sundays and holidays. If you ask: What after the cathedral? the answer invariably is: The Zoological garden. Thus one day at least is safely tided over. It is the second that sends you to the river Rhine, there to quote Coleridge, and later to the Gurzenich, and if you are industrious enough you may gaze upon the Moltke monu- ment and peep into the Church of St. Martin and the Church of the Apostles. There is then nothing else to do but drink Pilsner at the Ewige Lampe and rejoice that you left Düsseldorf and its ugly mid-nineteenth-century German art. But there is another attraction in Cologne besides the desire to escape from it on the big boat that takes you to Mainz. It is the Wallraff-Richartz Museum, where the German Primitives may be studied to your heart's content, for no traveller seemingly ever visits the neat little gallery.

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