INTRODUCTION

I HAVE been informed on good authority that a few years ago an English gentleman paid a visit to a high official of the Sudanese Government resident at Khartum, and, as a preliminary to a searching interrogatory on a number of points of great public interest, stated that he had just arrived and that his intention was 'to get at the very heart and soul of the people of the Sudan.' The official in question was naturally rather staggered at the declaration of a programme of such far-reaching ambition, all the more so because he had himself passed many toilsome years in the country, in the course of which he had made strenuous efforts to understand the habits and aspirations of its inhabitants, but did not feel at all confident of the degree of success which he had attained. He therefore anxiously inquired of the newcomer how long a time he intended to devote to the accomplishment of his self-imposed task. The reply given by this ardent seeker after Sudanese truth was that he proposed to leave Khartum by the train on the following Friday morning.

It may be, albeit I was told the anecdote as an authentic fact, that this is a caricature, but in any case it departs from the reality less than many might, as a

-vii-

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Egypt in Transition
Table of contents

Table of contents

  • Title Page v
  • Introduction vii
  • Note by the Author xxi
  • Contents xxiii
  • Egypt in Transition Chapter I - The Desert Train 1
  • Chapter II - A City of Romance 9
  • Chapter III - The Growing of Khartum 19
  • Chapter IV Omdurman 31
  • Chapter V Anglo-Sudanese Society 40
  • Chapter VI Concerning Politics and Persons 51
  • Chapter VII Some Sudanese Problems 62
  • Chapter VIII Simpkinson Bey 74
  • Chapter IX - Concerning Women, Soldiers, and Civilians 84
  • Chapter X The New Gate of Africa 93
  • Chapter XII A Nocturne 111
  • Chapter XIII A Sudan Plantation 120
  • Chapter XIV Land and Water 132
  • Chapter XV The Bridle of the Flood 141
  • Chapter XVI The Clients of Cook 153
  • Chapter XVII The Hills of the Dead 162
  • Chapter XVIII Cairo Impressions 169
  • Chapter XIX 179
  • Chapter XX Mr. Vaporopoulos 192
  • Chapter XXI - The Schools of the Prophet 202
  • Chapter XXII - The Occupation 212
  • Chapter XXIII 223
  • Chapter XXV Halting Justice 242
  • Chapter XVII Some Recent Reforms 253
  • Chapter XXVII The Drag on the Wheel 270
  • Chapter XXVIII Conclusions 286
  • Index 311
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