THE CLIENTS OF COOK
AT Assuan one finds oneself whirled tumultuously into the full stream of Egyptian pleasure-seekers. Some go by the Nile boat up to the temples of Abu Simbel and the Second Cataract at Wady Halfa; a few take the train onwards as far as Khartum. But the majority are content to bring their southward journey to a close at Assuan. They sentimentalise over the submerged temples at Philæ and stare at the great dam; the most of them spend a few days, or it may be weeks, sunning themselves on donkey-back or camel- back in the desert, boating on the Nile, wandering over Elephantine Island, or surveying that place of many memories from the terraces of the hotels.
One has many temptations to linger and 'fleet the time pleasantly.' From my window at the Cataract I enjoyed a prospect which was a never-ending delight and interest. To watch the changing colours of the great river at my feet might of itself have been an occupation for an idle man's day. In the morning, before the sun had warmed it into translucency, it lay before one a sheet of oily brown; it turned to a clear green- grey at midday, and settled into steely white under