To the tourist Egypt is a land of tombs, temples, touts, and hotels, a land of desert and sun-baked sand. But there is another Egypt which the tourist does not know: the Egypt of the alluvial plain between Cairo and the sea, the Egypt of the agricultural villages where they grow the cotton crop, and of the busy provincial towns where they store and sell it. Tantah and Damanhur are certainly not so interesting as Luxor; but to those whose concern is with the present and future rather than with the remote past they are perhaps as instructive.
An excursion into the Delta is not easily carried out unless the visitor has relations with Englishmen or influential natives who have official or business interests in that part of the country. There are few hotels or pensions, no guides or donkey-boys, and no facilities for the pleasure traveller; therefore, for board and lodging and the means of locomotion away from the railway, the inquirer must be indebted to the good offices of friends. Properly introduced, he will find no difficulty in this respect; for hospitality is a tradition with the Englishman in the East as it is with the