Maine, a Guide down East

By Workers of the Federal Writers Project of the Works Progress Administration for the State of Maine | Go to book overview

Lubec by ferry, considerable construction in connection with the Passamaquoddy Tidal Project (seeTour IN) has been in progress. The dam was to have run directly across the island.

A large granite Shaft, near the center of the island, is in memory of Colonel John Allen, Indian Superintendent for the Eastern District during the Revolution, who was chiefly responsible for keeping the Passamaquoddy Indians on the side of the colonists. Colonel Allen conducted a trading post on this island.

CAMPOBELLO ISLAND (Ital.: 'beautiful meadow'), though Canadian soil, is reached by a few minutes' ferry ride across Lubec Narrows. 1.5 m. from the ferry, the Summer Home of President Franklin D. Roosevelt, a large red house, is visible from the road. There is excellent fishing from the island, and the 30 miles of improved roads winding over it and passing many beautiful summer homes, provide magnificent panoramic views of the sea and the Maine coast.


TOUR 1 N: From PERRY to EASTPORT, 7.3 m., State 190.

Via Quoddy Village.

Two-lane tar-surfaced road.

THE route runs close to the shore of Passamaquoddy Bay, which, in sunlight, is intensely blue; beyond the islands dotting the water rise the hills of New Brunswick. This route is particularly delightful in the early morning, when the thumping of motor-boats and the tangy aroma of drying fish is a reminder of the area's fishing activities.

State 190 branches southeast from US 1 at Perry, 0 m. (see Tour 1, sec. d).

At 0.7 m. is the junction with a gravel road.

Left on this road is Pleasant Point, 2 m., a 100-acre reservation established about 1822 and occupied by 300 Passamaquoddy Indians. The State appoints an agent to supervise the business affairs of the reservation but the Indians elect their own governor and may send a member of the tribe to represent them before the legislature. Houses on the reservation are of modern camp type and there is a fully equipped elementary school.

These Indians had accepted Roman Catholicism before them was extensive white settlement in the State and have remained devout communicants even though retaining some of their primitive ceremonies. After a conventional church wedding in the little brick church, for example, the dark-skinned, sleek-haired Passamaquoddies dance to the beating of drums and the chanting of old songs. Discarding ordinary dress, which differs little from that of the white people living around them, they don ancient costume and headdress, and paint their faces. They welcome visitors to these affairs and appreciate applause. While they do not make friends easily, once their initial shyness has worn off they belie their reputation for taciturnity and are excellent story-tellers.

The Passamaquoddies do some farming and occasionally work on the roads, but their livelihood is derived chiefly from fishing.

From the time of the Revolution, the men have been active in military service; many joined the northern troops in the Civil War. In the Indian Cemetery (R) at the top of the hill near the entrance to the reservation, is a monument to Moses

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